What a great few days in Bayfield, WI! We feel fully rested, have our laundry caught up (thanks Susie and Melissa!), made a few good, home cooked meals, and saw lots of interesting things here in the gateway to the Apostle Islands. Once we got our accommodations nailed down during a very busy time of the year (thanks again Susie!), we were off to explore the sights...

Week 11

Played golf at the Apostle Islands Golf Course, -- what a nice treat! Lovely course in the hills with views that stretched for miles. Scored pretty well for the first time.

The town itself has wonderful shops -- no trash and trinket stuff here -- nice artwork, interesting clothes, antiques, etc. Spent a cloudy afternoon exploring everything we could.

Signed up for a 1/2 sailboat trip through the Islands, and got to the dock at the appointed hour, only to find there had been an overbooking problem. The gentleman who had more people show up than he had booked (not the boat owner--a salesman entertaining clients), was very apologetic and asked if we could possibly go the next day. We, of course, not having anything else to do, said sure. He then offered to pay for our trip ($90) if we would do that. That made it even more enticing!--but we still felt badly that he would pay. The next morning, he was right there with the check for our captain. We told the captain, Paul (Animaashi Sailing), that we felt badly letting him do that. Paul said, don't worry, he can certainly afford it -- he is Hubert Humphries son, Doug!

The sailing trip was breathtaking and the weather better than the previous day when we were supposed to go! Had lots of wind (15-20 MPH), and we were clipping along at 6.5 to 7 knots -- a couple times I thought we were going in, it was heeled over so much! (Eric - it was a 34' Irwin - 1983). The Islands are mostly uninhabited, except for Madeline Island, which isn't really one of the Apostles, anyway -- most people just think it is!

The real unexpected treat, however, was Big Top Chautauqua (sha-TOK-wa). They have entertainment all summer - under the Big Top. Mason Williams was going to be there, but we had seen him in Portland, so we opted for the fiddler, Natalie McMaster. OH MY GOD! She was FABULOUS!! From Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, she has it all. A great fiddling talent (does mostly Irish, Scottish tunes-Kristen, you would have gone crazy!), beautiful, witty, entertaining (you should see her jig while she plays!) -- the BEST concert I have ever seen - bar none. If you ever get a chance to see her -- mark it down -- RUN to get the tickets! I'm not a particular fan of that type of music, but the whole show was magnificent! She played, danced, sang, talked, and gyrated for 2 1/2 hours -- she must have been falling down tired -- then signed CD's for fans afterward.

A great "timeout" in a wonderful town, but it is time to move on. Green Bay, and Lambeau Field beckons. Phil is like a little kid, he is so excited just to see this icon. No home games coming up, so we have to be satisfied with a tour, and a look at the Packers Hall of Fame.

It is everything Phil had hoped for - saw the field, heard the history, sat in the Press box and Skyboxes, toured the well done Hall of Fame, and, of course, visited the "Pro Shop" for a souvenir! Even went to Bart Starr's Steakhouse for dinner - yum!

Some Lambeau Field facts: Seats about 60,000 - not a bad seat in the house, - they are voting to do a 20,000 seat expansion - hotly contested in this town. The City owns the stadium. The team is owned by a large group of investors. The tickets have been sold out (season tickets only are available) since 1963. The waiting list is 50,000+. At the current rate of attrition, it will take 400 YEARS to clear the current list! People put their children on the list the day they are born! Tickets are put into divorce settlements and wills on a regular basis. Talk about fanatics!

Just when you think you've seen the absolute cutest place ever -- you find something even more quaint. Door County is all it's reputation claims. Surrounded by Green Bay on one side and Lake Michigan on the other, this still mostly rural area oozes charm and class. The Lake Michigan side (Hwy 57) is the more laid back side. Less developed, fewer resorts, but lovely sand beaches, makes for a relaxing time to just explore around. The Green Bay side (Hwy 42) is the more upscale cousin. Around every bend is another town that is cuter than the last. Everything from fabulous art galleries to funky shops, from quaint cabins to upscale resorts, from Hamburger joints to the finest cuisine, from Cherry Orchards to Cherry Pie, from bicycles to paddle boats -- these 40+ miles of beachfront locale has something for everyone. When was the last time you saw clothes hanging neatly on the clothesline, or saw a Drive-In movie theater that is still operational, and is well maintained? -- what a refreshing view of life.

If we had to pick our favorites - it would be Bailey's Harbor on the east side, and Fish Creek on the Green Bay side. We have been here 4 days now, and can't seem to leave. We have absolutely "oinked" our way through this area. There is so much to try. Al Johnson's Swedish Restaurant with the goats on the grass roof is a must for Swedish Pancakes with Lignonberries served, not with bacon, but Swedish meatballs - a definite YUM! And, of course, you have to have a traditional Door Country Fish Boil -- complete with the cooking ritual, topped off with home made Cherry Pie - a not to be missed experience - we chose the White Gull Inn in Fish Creek - they really do a terrific job. And then there is a traditional Supper Club for the Lake Michigan Whitefish. The Florian Supper Club in Bailey's Harbor was our choice and did not disappoint. Lovely view of the Lake, great food, a fun staff, and entertainment to boot. We danced our legs off, then crawled to our motel right next door. A cute, moderately priced ($89), squeaky clean spot called the Inn at Bailey's Harbor. Right on the Lake, private beach, lawn with lounge chairs just beckoning you to idle away the day -- and we did. Took in one of Door Counties many golf courses - Maxwelton Braes (great name!) just south of Bailey's Harbor. Lovely, old style course in nice shape.

Naturally, we also had to wander through a few of the shops along the way -- you could spend a full week just doing that. Sister Bay, Ephreim, Fish Creek, and Egg Harbor offer the most choices -- each one unique, and each one with tantalizing choices. We could have spent many $$ here, but mostly refrained... so far.

WITH THE SHELL ON OUR BACK

Week 1-2

Even a week later it is difficult to remember all the things that happened - I must do a better job of keeping up!

Of course our first night is emblazoned on our memory - we were so nervous about finding a place, getting set up, and not looking too stupid! Of course, the setting on the Rogue River and the lovely park we chose with all the art work (see pictures), made it even more special. The owner promised to buy the champagne on our return trip a year from now! We may hold him to it!

We discovered we cannot set the alarm at night - Phil got up to go to the poddy, and off it went! Find the glasses, the keys, and figure out how to turn the @#$#%^$ thing off, all the while the alarm is sounding. Won't try that again!

Oregon Caves were interesting. They are the largest Marble Caves in the country. Saw good size stalactites & stalagmites ("g" for ground, they are the ones growing up, "c" for ceiling - I could never remember which was which!) The road up there is not for the faint of heart. Very steep and winding. Our poor rig was really pulling, but it did great. No overheating or any problems.The old Lodge there is worth seeing -- right out of the 40's.

Saw the Blazers lose in the only "sports bar" in Cave Junction - we we're the only ones watching the game - two locals at the bar could have cared less - think they were looking for dates and I didn't qualify.

Headed for the coast - Brookings and Gold Beach - was damp and cool there (what's new!), so decided to go check out Salmon Run Golf Course, where we wanted to play. Drove 3 miles inland, and the weather was beautiful. Not dressed for golf, but ready to seize the moment of good weather, we played in our jeans - have never done that before --can you imagine Phil on the golf course in JEANS???? This golf course is incredible -- every hole is more spectacular than the last. It is a ball eater, but a MUST PLAY, nonetheless. The back nine is recently open -- you can't imagine how they got all the concrete for the cart paths (don't even try it without one) in some of the locations. The wildflowers are beautiful, the wastelands vast, and the wildlife everywhere. Scores not great, but more beautiful, we thought, than Bandon Dunes -- oh heresy!

Have always heard about Tu Tu Tun Lodge in Gold Beach, so decided to go have lunch there. This is a small Lodge of exquisite elegance. Meals are for guests only -- can sometimes have dinner there if not a guest, depending upon availability. We will definitely stay there in the future. A small, intimate version of Salishan or Salish. We spoke with a couple who stayed there, they said the food was out of this world, and the rooms very romantic. On the banks of the Rogue River.

The Redwoods were beautiful. They go on for many miles, in and out of them. This was our only rainy day so far, but most of the way was just driving.

PHIL'S FLASHBACK

In 1959, I worked for a summer for G-P in Samoa, outside of Eureka, Ca. Pete Houser and I were just punk kids, away from home for the summer, making a few bucks. The "old salts" thought we were amusing, if not crazy. We ate every meal at "the cookhouse" that was privately leased by GP to provide the workers meals. We slept in a bunkhouse with characters that were hiding from every sin known to man.

Pete had told me that the cookhouse still exists, now as "The Samoa Cookhouse". We searched it out, and what a case of deja vu. That entire summer flashed before my eyes. We had lunch where I had sat - although the tables were turned the other way - and the food was still great. You eat what they are serving that day, but all home cooked. $8.45 for lunch that included homemade soup, salad, pork cutlet, 2 vegetables, mashed potatoes & gravy, home baked bread, and strawberry shortcake -- all served family style - all you can eat. We waddled out of there into the rain. I only remember 5 sunny days that whole summer -- the waitress said nothing has changed with the weather.

I really wished my dad were still alive to relive that memory with him...

Later that same afternoon, we stopped in to The Benbow Inn in Benbow, Ca. Another flashback for Phil, as "the guys" had gone down there to swim and get out of the rain one weekend. This would also be a good choice for a romantic getaway. The grounds are still beautiful and the River close by for swimming. They also have a pool. We stopped in late in the afternoon for a stretch break, and enjoyed a cocktail in their very inviting bar. This is an elegant place. Their bar hors d'eauves that afternoon included roasted vegetables, roasted garlic with baked brie en crote, fresh berries, including the biggest blackberries you have ever seen. Classy.

We have decided that $38 + tax for a motel room is a scary decision. We brought our own pillows and checked the bed for anything live before we got in! Willetts, Ca.

Ahhh, what a beautiful place! Trinadad, Ca. The harbor is quaint, and the scenery all along Patrick Drive is breathtaking. Gas was also $1.91. But we were in need, so bought a little to get us by. Stayed in a great park with a view of the ocean.

No trip to Northern California would be complete without a least 1 day in the Wine Country. Since we had been to Napa in years past, we decided to try the Sonoma Valley. Our plan was to go to the town of Sonoma, but were ready for a break at Healdsburg, and spent the day. Many of our favorite wineries are in this town -- Rodney Strong, Clos bu Bois, and Dry Creek, among others. Lunch from a deli, shopping, and 4 wineries made for a full day on our way to Novato.

Oh, Phil made his first clothing purchase of the trip here, for those of you had bets on how long THAT would take! A pair of Tommy Bahama shorts on sale.

The Novato RV Park had been recommended to us by a couple in Grants Pass (the networking amongst the RV'ers is unbelievable). We weren't impressed at first because of the all gravel and concrete spaces, and the proximity to the freeway. We also had to "level" the Van for the first time. Not as hard as I had thought. BUT, the "amenities" were great. An on site Deli that had every meal covered -- people came from all around the area to get their sandwiches! The best Pot Stickers we have ever had! A windshield washing service, a spotless laundry and shower facilities, a nice pool, good internet access, on site planning for local attractions, and the morning newspaper readily at hand made us agree this was a great value - even at $29.25 a night--Good Sam rate, of course.

Thought we were going to be with several friends in the Bay area over the weekend. Believe it or not, all the plans fell through! So, we looked at each other, and a map, and headed out. Spent a day in "the City" -- very much as we both remembered it. Had a nice respite at the St. Francis during "happy hour" at the Compass Rose Bar. A singer right out of the 40's, complete with suit and hat, singing great tunes. A tip on the cable cars - don't try to go from Fisherman's Wharf to Union Square -- a 1-2 hour wait in prime time -- go from town to the Wharf - you can jump on most anywhere, anytime!!

Since we had already spent some time in the Wine country earlier in the week, thought we'd start out a different direction. Had never been to Bodega Bay - thought we'd check it out. Beautiful headlands with houses slipping into the Ocean -- now I can see why Kitzhaber is so "death" on saving houses on the beach -- you should see the mess on the beaches here -- huge concrete, rock, log, etc. structures trying to hold back the ocean to the total detriment of the beauty of the land -- and, you know, the ocean will probably still prevail.

It was windy, and considerably colder there than the valley, so headed inland again. "let's go a different way" Phil says - so, dutifully, I got the map out and send us North on Hwy 1. Fall into Monte Rio outside of Guerneville. Non touristy, kind of funky, a totally delightful place on the banks of the Russian River. The locals were quick to let us know that there were still a lot of "alternative' folks in the area, especially Gays. The locals were definitely more concerned than we were. Found a small family motel with nice grounds, a nearby golf course, a FABULOUS Restaurant up the road -- we were there for the weekend!!

Unfortunately, we had our first unpleasant experience here (no, it had nothing to do with the "alternative" folks!). We told the motel we were staying a second night, but they forgot to change our key card (a new system for them). They left the motel unattended and without an emergency number (isn't that against the law?) for 4 hours -- and we were locked out of our room. Were we ever mad! It is a good thing we had the van, or I don't know what we would have done. We did manage to fill part of the evening with the local Pig Roast. They called him Elmer Fudd, and he was yummy! A real value for $15 pp and all the Bud Light you could consume--and some folks consumed a lot!

We're off to the U S Open. Look for us on TV!